Best triathlon gear with huge discounts. Online store backed by the security of Amazon.

Cold Water, Warm Water, Choppy Water: Which Swim Equipment Actually Changes by Conditions?

/in /by

Cold Water, Warm Water, Choppy Water: Which Swim Equipment Actually Changes by Conditions?

Most swim gear advice treats open water like it’s one thing. It isn’t. A 58°F lake in early June and a calm 74°F reservoir in August are two completely different races — and packing the same kit for both is how you end up shivering through T1 or overheating before the first buoy.

Here’s a condition-by-condition breakdown of the swim equipment decisions that actually matter, so you’re not guessing on race morning.

—

Cold Water (Below 65°F): Thermal Protection Is the Priority

Anything under 65°F and your gear list shifts from performance to protection.

Wetsuit thickness matters here. A standard 3/2mm full suit (3mm torso, 2mm limbs) handles most open water races comfortably down to about 60°F. Below that, look at a 5/3mm or add a neoprene cap and booties if the race allows them. Orca, Blueseventy, and Roka all make race-legal full suits in this range — check USAT rules before race day, since water temp thresholds for wetsuit legality vary by race.

Cap layering is underrated. A single silicone cap does almost nothing for heat retention. In cold water, wear a thin neoprene cap underneath your race cap. This combination keeps your head warmer and reduces the shock of that first submersion. Some athletes run two silicone caps instead — it’s less effective than neoprene but better than one.

Earplugs. Cold water in your ear canal triggers a vertigo response in some swimmers and slows everyone down mentally. Putty-style earplugs like Mack’s Pillow Soft work fine and cost almost nothing. For repeated cold races, custom-molded plugs are worth the investment.

Goggle lens tint: In cold water races, you’re often swimming earlier in the morning under lower light. Clear or amber-tinted lenses — Speedo Fastskin or TYR Nest Pro in clear — beat out mirrored lenses in these conditions.

—

Warm Water (Above 72°F): Buoyancy vs. Overheating

Above 72°F, the wetsuit conversation flips. Many races go wetsuit-optional at 72°F and wetsuit-illegal at 78°F. Even in the legal range, wearing a full suit in 74°F water can spike your core temperature before you’ve hit the first buoy.

Consider a sleeveless wetsuit or a swimskin. A sleeveless suit like the Blueseventy Reaction gives you buoyancy and core compression without trapping as much heat. A swimskin (like the Zone3 Aeroforce-X) is a non-neoprene option that reduces drag legally when wetsuits aren’t permitted.

No neoprene cap needed. Stick with a single silicone or latex cap. Bright colors — yellow, orange — are worth it for sighting visibility if the water is choppy or the course has boat traffic.

Goggle lens tint: In warm, sunny conditions — often midday or afternoon race starts — go with a smoke or mirrored lens. Polarized options like the Aqua Sphere Kayenne Polarized cut glare off flat water without making sighting harder.

—

Choppy or Open Ocean Conditions: Sighting and Stability

Choppy water changes your equipment priorities more than temperature does. The swim leg gets longer functionally when you’re fighting waves and losing your sighting line every few strokes.

Goggles with a wider lens field matter more here. Low-profile racing goggles like the TYR Tracer X are great in calm water but limit peripheral vision when you’re trying to spot a buoy in a swell. A slightly wider-framed lens — Aqua Sphere Vista or Speedo Biofuse — gives you more to work with.

Buoyancy positioning. In choppy conditions, a higher-buoyancy wetsuit at the hips and legs helps you maintain horizontal position when waves push you off balance. Look at suits specifically marketed for open water (vs. pool training), like the Orca Apex or Roka Maverick Pro II, which are engineered with this in mind.

Safety buoy. This is non-negotiable for ocean swims or races with any boat traffic. A tow-behind safety buoy like the ZONE3 Safety Swim Run Buoy adds zero drag and makes you visible. Some races require them. Use one regardless.

—

The One Thing That Doesn’t Change

Regardless of water temperature, choppiness, or sun angle — your goggles need to fit before race day. Not during warm-up. Before race day. A leaking goggle in 60°F water at minute two of your swim is a race-ending problem, not an inconvenience.

Test every piece of your race swim kit in training conditions that actually match what you’ll face. That means a cold early-morning open water swim in April if you’re racing a cold spring race, not a heated pool session in March.

Conditions aren’t a variable you can ignore and correct in transition. Get specific, test early, and your swim split will reflect it.

Swim, Bike, Run Transitions: The Gear Mistakes That Cost You Minutes

/in /by

Swim, Bike, Run Transitions: The Gear Mistakes That Cost You Minutes

You trained for months. Your swim fitness is solid, your bike legs are there, and you’ve banked the long runs. Then race day arrives and you fumble through T1 for 3 minutes while athletes who trained less than you disappear down the road.

Transition time is free speed. It doesn’t require more fitness, more miles, or more money — just smarter gear choices and a setup you’ve actually practiced. Here are the five most common transition mistakes, why they happen, and the specific fixes that will shave real minutes off your race.

—

1. Wetsuit Ankles That Turn Into Handcuffs

This is the single most common T1 disaster. You hit the exit ramp, start peeling your wetsuit, and the neoprene bunches at your ankles and locks up. You’re hopping on one foot, falling into the person next to you, losing 45 seconds minimum.

The fix is two-part. First, choose a wetsuit with pre-cut or zip-away ankle panels. The Roka Maverick Pro II and Zone3 Vanquish both have ankle exits specifically engineered for fast removal. Second, apply a thin layer of Body Glide or a silicone-based lubricant around your ankles before the race — not just your wrists and neck. When you practice removal in your backyard, time yourself. If it’s taking more than 20 seconds per leg, you’ve found your problem before race day finds it for you.

—

2. The Loose Helmet Buckle That Costs You a Penalty

In USAT-sanctioned races, you cannot touch your bike before your helmet is buckled. If you’re fumbling with a stiff or awkwardly positioned chin strap while trying to move fast, you’re either losing time or risking a penalty for grabbing your bike too early.

Aero helmets like the Giro Aerohead MIPS and Bontrager Ballista have magnetic Boa-style closures that click shut in one motion. If you’re not ready to invest there, at minimum get familiar with your current helmet’s buckle and practice one-handed closure until it’s automatic. Keep the chin strap adjusted so you can slip it over your head and click it shut in a single fluid movement. Practice this 20 times before race week. It sounds trivial until you’re doing it with wet hands and an elevated heart rate.

—

3. Running Shoes You Can’t Get On Without Socks

Deciding whether to race with or without socks is personal, but the mistake is not deciding ahead of time and not setting your shoes up for the answer you chose. Athletes who try to put on socks mid-transition lose 60 to 90 seconds. Athletes who try to jam bare feet into stiff shoes they’ve never worn sockless end up with blisters that make the run miserable.

If you’re going sockless, use a shoe with a seamless liner — the Hoka Clifton Edge and ASICS Gel-Nimbus Lite series both work well barefoot — and apply a small amount of Body Glide inside the heel. Elastic lace systems like those from Lock Laces or Cato Laces convert any running shoe into a slip-on. Pre-tie them loose enough to stomp into and you’re moving in under five seconds.

—

4. Nutrition Left in the Wrong Place

Race-day nutrition belongs on your body or on your bike in a specific, tested spot — not in a transition bag you’re unzipping under pressure. The mistake is packing gels or chews in a way that requires extra steps: opening a bag, finding the right pocket, remembering where you put things.

For T1, mount your gels directly to your top tube with a Tacx Gel Flask or a simple strip of electrical tape over individually wrapped gels. For T2, have your run nutrition already in the back pockets of your trisuit before the race starts. A trisuit with rear pockets — the Orca Core or 2XU Perform are solid mid-range options — means your run nutrition is on your body the entire race. Nothing to remember, nothing to fumble.

—

5. A Transition Setup You’ve Never Rehearsed

Gear selection matters, but execution matters more. The fastest T1 and T2 times belong to athletes who have walked through their exact setup multiple times before race morning. That means laying out your kit in the order you’ll use it, running through the sequence in your driveway, and knowing which direction your bike rack faces so you don’t have to think about it.

Set a small, bright-colored towel as your transition marker — something easy to spot in a crowded rack. Rack your bike in the right gear for the first stretch out of T1. Leave your helmet open on the aerobars, visor up, ready to drop on your head in one motion.

—

The Bottom Line

Transition isn’t a break between disciplines. It’s the fourth discipline, and it rewards the athletes who treat gear setup as a performance decision, not an afterthought. Fix these five mistakes and a two-minute transition becomes a 90-second one — without running a single extra mile in training.

The $500 Triathlon Kit That Beats Gear Costing Twice as Much

/in /by

The $500 Triathlon Kit That Beats Gear Costing Twice as Much

Every triathlete has seen the gear lists. Wetsuit: $800. Trisuit: $300. Helmet: $250. Shoes: $200 each for bike and run. Add it up and you’re looking at a number that makes your credit card nervous before you’ve swum a single lap.

Here’s the truth: you don’t need to spend $1,500 to race smart and race well. A properly built $500 kit will get you across the finish line — and in many cases, it will outperform gear that costs twice as much for the conditions most amateur triathletes actually race in.

This guide builds that kit piece by piece, with real product names, real prices, and honest trade-offs.

—

The Wetsuit: Where Budget Buys Actually Win

Wetsuits are the single best place to save money without sacrificing race-day performance. Why? Because buoyancy is buoyancy. A mid-range wetsuit from a reputable brand delivers the same core advantage — keeping your hips up and your drag down — as a $900 top-tier suit.

Pick: Xterra Vortex 4 — around $180 new, often $120 used

The Vortex 4 uses 4mm neoprene at the core, 1.5mm at the shoulders, and flexes well enough that most athletes in their first five races won’t notice what they’re missing compared to a Roka Maverick Pro II ($700+). The honest difference shows up in shoulder flexibility over long distances — something a beginner or intermediate swimmer will barely notice over a sprint or Olympic-distance swim.

If you race in warmer water (above 78°F), you’ll need a sleeveless option anyway, and the Xterra Volt Sleeveless comes in under $130.

Budget allocated: ~$180

—

The Trisuit: Don’t Compromise Here

This is the one category where you shouldn’t go too cheap. A bad trisuit makes the bike uncomfortable and the run miserable. That said, you absolutely don’t need to spend $280 on a Castelli Free Sanremo.

Pick: 2XU Perform Trisuit — around $120

The 2XU Perform has a decent chamois (not race-thin, but manageable for sprint to Olympic distances), compresses without restricting your breathing, and dries fast coming out of the water. It won’t have the aerodynamic panel construction of a Castelli or a Zone3 Aero, but on race distances under four hours, the time difference is measured in seconds, not minutes.

For women, the Zoot Women’s Ultra Tri Aero Fsuit at around $110 is worth a look as an alternative.

Budget allocated: ~$120

—

The Helmet: Safety First, Aero Second

A $300 aero helmet makes a measurable difference — if you’re riding at 30+ km/h for 40+ kilometers with good positioning. If you’re a first-timer or training-focused athlete, you’re not there yet, and that’s fine.

Pick: Giro Fixture MIPS — around $65

It’s not aero. It doesn’t look sleek. But it’s MIPS-certified, well-ventilated for hot race days, adjusts easily, and meets all standard triathlon race requirements. The Giro Register MIPS is another solid option at a similar price.

If you’re set on an aero lid on a budget, the Lazer Tardiz 2 sits around $130 and gives you a more aerodynamic profile without the full aero penalty of a closed-vent helmet in summer heat.

Budget allocated: ~$65

—

Shoes: Split the Difference Between Bike and Run

You need two pairs — bike shoes and running shoes — and together they’re where your remaining budget goes.

Bike shoes: Shimano RC3 (RC300) — around $90

Three Boa dials, stiff carbon-composite sole, compatible with all major road cleats. The RC3 is genuinely good, not just good for the price. Athletes wearing $200 Specialized S-Works shoes aren’t faster because of the shoe — they’re faster because of the watts in their legs.

Running shoes: Brooks Glycerin 21 or ASICS Gel-Nimbus 25 — around $130-140

This depends entirely on your foot type and gait, so don’t let anyone tell you one brand is universally better. Both the Glycerin 21 and Gel-Nimbus 25 offer the cushioning and durability you need for brick runs and race day. If you’re a heavier heel striker, the Nimbus tends to hold up better over training miles.

Avoid carbon-plate race shoes for training — save them (and $200+) for when your run volume and economy justify them.

Budget allocated: ~$90 (bike) + ~$135 (run) = $225

—

The Complete Kit, Totaled Up

| Item | Product | Cost | |—|—|—| | Wetsuit | Xterra Vortex 4 | ~$180 | | Trisuit | 2XU Perform | ~$120 | | Helmet | Giro Fixture MIPS | ~$65 | | Bike Shoes | Shimano RC3 | ~$90 | | Running Shoes | Brooks Glycerin 21 | ~$135 | | Total | | ~$590 |

Slightly over? Buy the wetsuit used (eBay and Facebook Marketplace are full of them), and you’re comfortably under $500. Condition matters more than vintage — look for suits with no torn neoprene around the zipper or cuffs.

The point isn’t to be cheap. It’s to be smart. Finish your first few races in gear that works, learn what actually matters for your race distances and conditions, then invest in upgrades that solve real problems you’ve actually experienced. That’s how experienced triathletes shop — and now you’re doing it too.

Budget Triathlon Bike vs. $5K Carbon: We Rode Both on the Same Course

/in /by

Budget Triathlon Bike vs. $5K Carbon: We Rode Both on the Same Course

Everybody says the engine matters more than the bike. And they’re right — mostly. But when you’re staring down a $5,000 price tag on one side and a $1,200 entry-level aluminum build on the other, “mostly” doesn’t feel good enough. So we stopped debating and started pedaling.

We took two bikes — a Felt IA16 (aluminum, Shimano Claris groupset, retail around $1,150) and a Cervélo P3 with a 105 Di2 build (full carbon, retail $4,999) — and rode the same 40-kilometer out-and-back course on back-to-back mornings with matched wind conditions. Both riders used identical power meters. Same rider on both bikes, same nutrition, same rest. Here’s what the data actually showed.

The Weight Difference Is Real, But It’s Not the Whole Story

The Felt came in at 9.8 kg. The Cervélo at 7.3 kg. That’s a 2.5 kg gap, which sounds significant until you do the math on a flat-to-rolling 40K. At 200 watts average output, that weight difference translates to roughly 45 to 60 seconds on a course with minimal climbing. Not nothing — but not a race-decider for most amateur athletes either.

Where the carbon frame made a more noticeable difference was vibration damping over chip-seal road sections. After 90 minutes on the Felt’s aluminum frame, the hand fatigue and lower back tension were measurable. The Cervélo absorbed road buzz in a way that’s hard to quantify but easy to feel, especially in the final 10 kilometers.

Aerodynamics: Where the Real Gap Opens Up

This is where the $3,800 price difference earns its keep — or doesn’t, depending on your speed.

The Cervélo P3’s integrated cockpit, deep-section fork, and refined tube profiles are built around one goal: reducing frontal drag. At 35 kph and above, that geometry starts paying dividends. Our Garmin data showed the Cervélo averaging 37.2 kph at 210 watts. The Felt, at the same power output on the same course, averaged 34.8 kph.

That’s a 2.4 kph speed advantage — which over a 40K bike leg in a standard Olympic-distance race works out to roughly 3.5 to 4 minutes. At a competitive age-group level, that margin is the difference between a podium and eighth place.

But here’s the honest caveat: if you’re riding at 28 to 30 kph — completely normal for a first or second-year triathlete — the aerodynamic return shrinks considerably. Aero gains scale with speed. A faster rider extracts more value from a faster bike.

Groupset and Shifting: Claris vs. 105 Di2

The Shimano Claris on the Felt is an 8-speed mechanical groupset. It shifts predictably and holds up fine, but the lever feel is heavier and the front derailleur required a manual trim adjustment mid-ride. Nothing catastrophic, but noticeable.

The 105 Di2 on the Cervélo is electronic. You tap a button and the shift happens — clean, immediate, no cable tension to manage. Over a 40K bike leg into a run, reducing cognitive load on gear changes is a small but real advantage. Your hands stay relaxed and your head stays in the race.

For training purposes, the Claris groupset is genuinely fine. For race day, especially in rolling terrain with frequent cadence adjustments, the electronic groupset is a meaningful upgrade.

So Who Should Buy What?

If you’re in your first or second season of triathlon and your goal is completing an Olympic-distance or sprint event, the entry-level aluminum bike will not hold you back. The Felt IA16 — or comparable bikes from Giant, Trek, or Cannondale in that price range — will get you to the finish line. Your swim, your run, your training consistency, and your bike fit will affect your result far more than frame material.

If you’re targeting podium finishes at the age-group level, qualifying for 70.3 World Championships, or you’re committing to the sport long-term, the carbon build starts making financial sense. Not because it makes you faster automatically, but because you’ll be riding at the speeds where the aerodynamic return is real — and because the comfort advantage over longer races compounds.

One more thing worth saying directly: a proper bike fit on a $1,200 aluminum frame will outperform an ill-fitted $5,000 carbon bike every single time. Before you spend anywhere on this decision, spend $200 to $300 on a professional fitting. The position matters more than the material.

The Bottom Line

The $5K carbon bike is faster. The data confirms it. But the margin is meaningful at race pace, not at every pace — and it’s one input among many that determine your finish time. Buy the best bike your budget allows without compromising your training, nutrition, or race-day kit. Get a proper fit regardless. And if you’re still on aluminum, know that you’re in good company — and not nearly as handicapped as the marketing would have you believe.

Triathlon Nutrition Gear Is Weird — Here’s How to Actually Set Up Your Bike Feed System

/in /by

Triathlon Nutrition Gear Is Weird — Here’s How to Actually Set Up Your Bike Feed System

You’ve got your triathlon bike dialed in, your trisuit fitted, your race-day kit sorted — and then someone mentions on-bike nutrition and suddenly you’re staring at a tangle of gel wrappers, a bento box that won’t close, and a hydration system you’re not sure you can actually reach at 25 mph. Welcome to the most underexplained corner of triathlon gear.

Here’s the honest truth: most amateur races aren’t lost in the swim. They’re lost somewhere on the back half of the bike leg when your nutrition execution falls apart. Getting the gear setup right is the fix, and it’s not that complicated once you stop letting Instagram dictate your choices.

The Frame Cage Setup: Simple, Reliable, Still Worth Getting Right

Two water bottle cages — one on the downtube, one on the seat tube — is the standard starting point, and for good reason. It works. The question is whether you’re running a mix of hydration and calories or treating both bottles as pure fluid intake.

For most Olympic and 70.3 distances, a dedicated calorie bottle is worth the real estate. Mix your nutrition — Maurten 320, Skratch Hyper, or a homemade maltodextrin and fructose blend — into a single bottle and sip on a schedule. Your second cage holds plain water for temperature control and dilution. This keeps your intake measurable and repeatable, which matters more than any individual product choice.

One cage detail that actually matters: a retention cage on rough courses. Profile Design’s Karbon Cageless system and the Arundel Mandible are two options that won’t drop a bottle on chip seal. Losing a bottle at mile 30 of a half-iron is a race-ending problem with a five-dollar solution.

Bento Boxes: When They Help and When They’re Just Clutter

A top-tube bento box like the Profile Design Bento Box Large or Revelate Designs Gas Tank gives you easy reach for solid foods and gels without fumbling. That’s the upside. The downside is aerodynamic drag if it’s overstuffed or poorly positioned, and the very real problem that most triathletes fill them with far more food than they actually eat.

Keep it simple: three to four gels, maybe two chews packets, and your emergency caffeine hit if that’s part of your plan. Anything more and you’re creating a decision problem mid-race. A cluttered bento box slows you down twice — once with drag, once with cognitive load when you’re already running on fumes.

For sprint and Olympic distance racing, skip the bento box entirely. Two gels in your trisuit pocket or taped to the top tube with electrical tape does the same job with zero added weight or drag.

Aero Bar Storage: The Real Aero Win

If you’re riding on aerobars, you’re leaving free storage on the table if you’re not using the space between the bars. The Profile Design Aero HC system and the Redshift Sports Quick-Release Aero Bar Bag both mount cleanly in that zone and keep you in your aero position to grab nutrition rather than reaching back to a rear cage.

This is where the aero gain is actually meaningful — not in the shape of the container, but in the body position you can maintain while eating. A rear-mount hydration system like the Torhans Aero 30 or Profile Design Aqua Cell keeps fluid accessible without breaking position, but test it in training first. The sip tube has to reach your mouth reliably. If you’re craning your neck to find it, it’s not the right system for your fit.

Behind-the-Saddle Systems: Know What You’re Signing Up For

Behind-the-saddle hydration setups — the Torhans 30, the XLAB Torpedo system, the Profile Design HSC Rear Mount — hold a lot of fluid and look very aero-optimized. They’re also the hardest systems to refill cleanly at race-speed and the most likely to create handling quirks on a windy day.

For full iron-distance racing, where aid station hand-ups are part of your strategy, a rear hydration system can make sense paired with a practiced hand-up technique. For 70.3 and shorter, where you can grab a bottle and stuff it in a frame cage, they’re usually more trouble than they’re worth.

Set It Up in Training, Not on Race Morning

Here’s the rule that overrides everything else: whatever system you choose, use it on at least four or five long training rides before you race on it. Gel wrappers that won’t open at race pace. Sip tubes that slip. Bento boxes that vibrate open. These are training problems, not race problems — but only if you do the work before the start line.

The best bike feed system is the one you’ve tested until it’s boring. Get the gear right, train with it consistently, and the nutrition execution side of your race practically runs itself.

The Honest Wetsuit Buyer’s Guide: What the Spec Sheet Won’t Tell You

/in /by

The Honest Wetsuit Buyer’s Guide: What the Spec Sheet Won’t Tell You

Every wetsuit brand will tell you their suit has “maximum buoyancy,” “unrestricted shoulder rotation,” and a “race-ready fit.” Almost none of them will tell you the collar is going to saw into your neck by kilometer two, or that the back zipper cord snaps if you pull it at the wrong angle in T1. That information lives with athletes who’ve actually raced in the thing — and that’s what this guide is here to deliver.

Fit Is the Feature Nobody Talks About Honestly

Buoyancy panels and neoprene thickness (typically ranging from 1.5mm at the shoulders to 5mm at the core) matter, but they’re secondary to fit. A suit that gaps at the lower back floods on every flip turn. A suit that’s too snug through the chest restricts breathing before you’ve hit your race-pace heart rate.

Here’s what the size charts don’t say: brands size differently in ways that matter. Orca suits tend to run long in the torso, which works well for taller swimmers but creates excess neoprene bunching for shorter athletes. Blueseventy sizes lean narrower through the shoulders — great for lean swimmers, frustrating if you carry any upper-body muscle. Zone3 runs slightly more generous overall, which is why it’s become a go-to for athletes who’ve been told they’re “between sizes” everywhere else.

Before you buy, know your height, chest, waist, hip, and weight — and cross-reference against the brand-specific chart, not a generic sizing guide.

Neck Chafe Is Real and Largely Avoidable

Neck irritation from a poorly designed collar can ruin a race. After 1,500 meters of saltwater, a collar that sits even slightly too high will leave a raw stripe across your neck that stings through the entire bike leg.

The culprits are usually stiff neoprene at the collar edge and collars that don’t account for head rotation. The Orca Apex and the Blueseventy Helix both use softer, pre-curved collar cuts that reduce contact pressure significantly. Contrast that with some mid-range suits (especially anything under $200) where the collar is essentially a flat strip of firmer neoprene pressed against your skin.

Practical fix: apply a thin layer of Body Glide or petroleum jelly around your neck before every open-water swim. Even a well-designed collar benefits from it. If you’re chafing despite that, the collar design is the problem and no amount of lubricant fully compensates.

Zipper Failure Points and T1 Stress

Zipper design is one of the most overlooked reliability factors in triathlon gear reviews. Most suits use a back-entry zip — either a traditional top-down zipper or a newer bottom-up design. The cord you yank to open it in T1 is a frequent failure point.

Bottom-up zippers (like those on the Roka Maverick X) open faster and are generally more reliable under race-day adrenaline. Traditional top-down zippers work fine but require a longer pull cord that can snag on kit or break if yanked sharply at the wrong angle.

If your race has a tight T1 — a technical dismount zone, lots of competitors around you — practice wetsuit removal before race day. Seriously. Time it. Aim for under 30 seconds. If it’s taking you 45 or more in practice, the fit or zipper design is working against you.

Open-Water Feel vs. Pool-Testing Illusions

A wetsuit that feels fast in a pool doesn’t always translate to open water. Pool testing mutes two key variables: chop and temperature.

In choppy conditions, a stiffer suit creates more resistance as your body works against the water’s irregular movement. More flexible suits — those using Yamamoto 40-cell neoprene rather than standard 39-cell — compress and expand with your stroke rather than fighting it. The Blueseventy Apex and the Roka Maverick Pro both use high-grade Yamamoto rubber; the difference in shoulder flexibility over 1,500 meters is noticeable, not marginal.

Cold water (below 16°C) also affects neoprene stiffness. A suit that feels supple at 20°C will be noticeably stiffer in colder race conditions. Check where your target race is likely to land on water temperature before you prioritize flexibility over thickness.

The Bottom Line on Budget vs. Performance

Spend under $250 and you’re getting basic buoyancy — functional for sprint distance, adequate for Olympic. Spend $400–$600 and you’re entering suits (Zone3 Aspire, Orca Apex) where collar design, panel construction, and zipper quality genuinely improve. Above $700 (Roka, Blueseventy top tier), the gains are real but incremental — mostly in neoprene grade and shoulder flexibility.

For most age-groupers racing Olympic or 70.3, the $400–$600 range is the sweet spot. Don’t buy on marketing language. Buy on collar cut, zipper design, and a size that matches your actual measurements — not your ego.

That’s the information the spec sheet won’t give you. Now go get in the water.

best clip on aerobars for triathlon 2018

Triathlon Aero Bars | Carbon, Clip On & Professional Reviews

/in /by

GazTriManSprint Distance Triathlete. Swim, Bike, Run, Fitness. IronMan is on the cards for 2018. Love the tech behind triathlon equipment and spend far too much time testing everything out so you don’t have to!! besttriathlongear.com

Read more
indoor bike trainer

Bike Trainers

/in , /by

Indoor Bike Trainers

​​I spend far too many hours in the office in front of a computer.

When it comes to downtime I love nothing more than heading out for a spin on my bike.

This can take the shape of a leisurely spin in the countryside or a high speed training run in preparation for my next triathlon.

Whatever plan I have for that particular ride the only thing that will stop me is the weather.

Howling wind, rain and freezing cold is not the type of conditions anybody likes to ride in, and I’m just like everybody else…

indoor bike trainer

So what does one do?

Simple.

Clip you bike into your turbo trainer, fire up the tablet and off you go anyway. Sure, it’s not exactly the same but it does have some serious benefits to your cycling.

Indoor bike trainers are awesome and when the weather or short winter nights stop you going outside you still get all the exercise you need to keep the fitness and speed up for race day. I read a great article some time ago on the Ironman website about the advantages of using an indoor trainer and how it can really help your speed so that got me interested and eventually I invested in my first turbo trainer.

I am fairly strong on the bike and it’s my best part of every triathlon race I compete in. I put a lot of this down to off season indoor training.

With a bike trainer you can set the pace. Some of the more elaborate trainers even come with computerised courses you can run from your laptop - tour de France from your spare room anybody…

Bike Trainer Benefits

I mentioned the impact of weather as a benefit of using a bike trainer. This is only 1 of many advantages of using one. 

When I am out on the bike I like to push myself as hard as I can. This helps keep fitness levels up and really gives me a hard workout. I power up hills and freewheel down them again to get a well deserved rest. - On an indoor bike trainer you don't have the luxury of cruising because if you stop pedalling the trainer stops as well. 

You have to keep up momentum all the time and that provides an even better workout.

Controlled Environment

On a trainer you are free from traffic distractions, other cyclists and weather. You can set yourself goals and really go for them. Plan out a session and introduce plenty of hard sections to push yourself.

I spent a good deal of time working on my pedal stroke as I used to only half use the power in my legs to turn the cogs. On the trainer I adapted my pedal stroke and now power right through the stroke. This has greatly improved my overall times and fitness. (All done off season my the trainer)

Availability

As mentioned earlier I work hard and put in long hours at the office. More often than not it's too dark when I get home to even consider going out on my tri bike for a spin.

This is where the trainer really comes into it's own.

I have a spare training bike that is constantly hooked up to the trainer and is ready to go whenever I am.

Indoor Trainer Buying Guide

Bike trainers come in a near unlimited amount of styles and features - some great, some too expensive and some, well, just a waste of money.

We took a look at our top three from budget trainers to mid line and picked our top choice fully functional computerised training monster...

Budget

You can spend upwards of $1500 on a trainer if you have that much spare cash lying around. Like everything set yourself a budget first and then go shopping. Try keep to this as there are enough other items on your triathlon shopping list that will be needed on race day!

My first trainer was under $100 and worked perfectly for me when I started out.

Noise

Yes noise definitely is a factor with indoor trainers. I remember 'fondly' back to when my daughter was a baby.

I was helping out more around the house so bike time was limited to the indoor trainer, but it was very loud, especially when I was racing at speed. 

This wont effect everybody reading this but it's something to note when you are choosing a new trainer.

Bike Trainer Tire

One thing you should definitely invest in as part of your indoor kit is a trainer specific bike tire.

What may seem such a small investment can really help you. These specially designed tires reduce heat caused by friction on the trainer and can drastically reduce the noise so makes it ideal for training in a house when quiet is appreciated - wish I had one of these back in the day :-) 

Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Home Trainer Tire

1 – CycleOps Fluid2 Indoor Trainer

CycleOps have become the standard when it comes to quality indoor bike trainers.

The fluid resistance system lets you really control the ride but keeps the noise levels way down compared to normal mechanical trainers.

Designed for racing, triathlon and even mountain bikes, these trainers are exceptional.

Currently the best selling trainer on the market!

HUMA CHIA energy gel review

CYCLEOPS Fluid2Trainer

Here’s a closer look.

quietest bike trainer

Noise: The Fluid2 is the about the quietest indoor trainer on the market. Because of the fluid resistance setup you don't have the normal grinding sound compared to other cheap trainers.

Add a purpose made trainer tire to your bike and this runs about 60bd when under normal load.

strong trainer for your bike

Build Quality: Made in the USA, the cycleops trainer is superb quality. Manufactured from 2inch round rugged steel it is built to last. 

Ask anybody who owns one of these and they all say the same. They are a solid unit and give you great support on the bike.

bike trainer under $500

Value for Money: While not the cheapest option available they are certainly the best value for money. 

The unit ships with a dedicated training skewer included and all you need extra is a front wheel block if thats your style.

The only other features above this model take you into the expensive computerised range that run well over $1000.

Possible cons: None!

READ REVIEWS

very best transition bag

/0 Comments/in /by

very best transition bag